![]() One minor clarification on the circuit fuses based on my review of the wiring diagrams. I don't recall any threads where APIM or GPS module failures were found to be the cause. IIRC the majority of 'dead battery after sitting' issues reported here have ultimately been related to wiring ground-faults, Battery Monitor Sensor or associated wiring failures, or batteries nearing end-of-life but not yet totally defunct. I don't know that there is any 'state' where there is absolutely zero load on the battery. APIM) correctly enter lowest-current-draw 'sleep mode' at the appropriate time after the ignition is turned off and the vehicle is allowed to stand undisturbed.īottom line, we do know that by design the Escape does have some battery loads after ignition-off, though that should be low immediately after ignition-off and drop even lower when the vehicle enters full 'sleep mode'. That sensor may play a role in the BMS operation including ensuring that modules on "hot at all times" circuits (e.g. When you pulled the battery, how did the Battery Monitor Sensor and associated 2-wire connector on the negative battery terminal look? Others have reported a variety of bad electrical behaviors upon finding that sensor or associated connector and 16-gauge wires corroded (to the point of high circuit resistance or circuit discontinuity). was the vehicle in its full sleep state when you detected the 1.5A parasitic load?). Even opening a door will 'wake' the ignition-off vehicle from sleep and induce some intended battery loads - I wonder if the timing/sequence of your testing for parasitic draws could be misleading due to that (i.e. ![]() Though 1.3A does strike me as a lot for the APIM to pull immediately following ignition-off (I would expect something in the milliamp range), that module likely is intended to have some activity with associated low-current-draw after shut down and may not drop to its lowest-current-draw condition 'till after the vehicle has sat totally undisturbed (and entered full 'sleep mode') for a period of time after ignition-off. Sounds like you've done some careful / thorough diagnostics. ![]() That might yield a free replacement / fix. Since your diagnostic points to the APIM (SYNC module) you might check with a dealer to see if this extension of the APIM warranty to 5 years comes into play. Has anyone else seen something like this? Assuming my diagnosis is correct is the fix to replace the SYNC/GPS modules? F67 feeds SYNC, display, GPS module.Ĭonclusion: Sync module or GPS is staying on and preventing car from starting. Pull and replace F79, F71, F69, all with no change. Try them in descending order only because these are somewhat difficult to get to. Begin with fuse F88 bottom right most 25A. Try the one in the rear cargo area due to ease of access even with non-functioning liftgate. Start with the box under the hood by the battery. Simplest, but maybe most time consuming, is to begin pulling fuses to isolate which circuit is drawing power. Watch a couple of youtube videos to see how to diagnose. Put current meter in series with ground cable to measure current draw with car off. Checked AC ripple voltage, 35mV.ĭisconnect battery. I drove it home and checked the voltage with my meter. ![]() Drove it down there and they told me the voltage regulator was not working correctly and then proceeded to recommend a mechanic to replace my alternator. They said if I could get it to them they would check the alternator. I took the battery to the parts store to have them check it. I removed the battery, put it on a charger overnight, and tried again the next morning. Last week I went to the garage to start the car and it was dead. It is Titanium trim FWD with 2.0L Ecoboost.
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